Does the perfect nut exist? Processors will tell you that depends on the market. Market demand for the almond, pistachio and walnut this harvest season and their value depend on a variety of characteristics.

Processors always want kernels that are free from insect damage, mold and other defects, but a kernel’s ultimate value lies in meeting customer preferences.

Not Just a Pretty Face

“It is more than just appearance of the almonds,” Mel Machado, vice president of member relations for Blue Diamond, said. Size, workability, texture, flavor and appearance are qualities sought for specific purposes in the food business.

“Some say highest quality, but a certain almond variety may be a buyer preference. It all depends on the handler and customer base,” Machado noted.

‘Workability’ in food will require a specific variety. Does that variety blanch? Some will, but not all. Does it roast? Not all almond varieties fit that bill, Machado said. Food manufacturers needing specific characteristics will look for varieties that can meet their needs.

Physical appearance is also necessary in whole almonds. Large, well-shaped kernels with no chips sell well as a snack. Candy manufacturers prefer smaller-size kernels, Machado said.

“It all depends on what market you are supplying.”

Taste differences can also matter. Machado said the Aldrich variety has the most pungent taste of all California almond varieties, due to the flavor molecule “benzaldehyde.”

Machado said when it comes to ‘mixed nut’ products, there are cost considerations. Nonpareil may be preferred, but costs are higher. Other varieties, such as Butte and Padre, may be too small for the customer’s needs. The Carmel variety works well in an oil roast, Machado explained, but Carmel is not a particularly popular variety with growers due to the prevalence of bud failure.

Jim Sitton, grower relations manager at Sierra Valley Almonds in Madera, said traditionally, the nonpareil variety delivers the highest returns for growers. Nonpareil by definition means having no match or equal. Sierra Valley has a strong reputation in the India inshell market for our top tier consistent quality.

However, he said growers with smaller acreages may want to  consider self-fertile varieties, such as Independence or Shasta, for the convenience of a single harvest and reduced input cost.

Sitton said Sierra Valley sources almonds from large and small growers and recommends production practices like winter sanitation and preharvest conditioning. The winter sanitation helps control the navel orangeworm population. The use of a conditioner during the harvesting months provides higher turnouts at the huller by providing a clean product from field to finish.

Pellicle Color Key in Walnuts

Brian Mori, with Crain Walnut Shelling Inc., said a large in-shell nut has high value, but color of the kernel is critical.

“Color is what makes California walnut production different from other global production areas and why the Chandler variety dominates. They typically produce the best color,” Mori said.

Minimal defects from insect damage or mold are important for  walnut quality. Light color kernels coupled with quality will bring the highest returns for growers.

Mori said it is important for hullers and dryers to do their part in maximizing quality in walnuts. Proper handing by the huller and dryer can increase value back to the grower. Those operations that have invested in sorting machinery can deliver more consistency to handlers.

“They have to balance quality with maximum yield,” Mori said.

Gerard Millen, grower relations manager with Omega Walnut Nut Inc. in Orland, said color is important in both in-shell and shelled product. The more lucrative export market wants a ‘pristine’ kernel, meaning very light in color with no visible defects. The highest-value walnut product is a blend of 80% light halves and 20% light pieces. Asian markets particularly value light kernels. Combination mixes are where the darker color kernels are used.

Texture is the same in all walnut varieties, but Millen said flavor is not. The flavor, he said, in his opinion, has to do with oil content, whether that is a varietal trait or from an environmental cause. Use of walnut varieties by buyers depends on the pricing. Light-colored Chandler kernels command a premium price compared to other varieties. Walnut buyers will take early harvested varieties, he said, until the later harvested Chandlers come on the market.

Quality of this year’s harvest is good, but as expected, yields are much lower due to a light set.

Green Color Wins with Pistachio

“When it comes to pistachios, it is the kernel color that consumers want to see,” said Jeff Gibbons, senior director of grower services and farming at Setton Pistachios. The green kernels produced by the three main California varieties of pistachio (Kerman, Golden Hills and Lost Hills) are similar in taste.

Gibbons said consumers are seeking the creamy, sweet flavor of pistachio kernels. They do not favor heavily roasted pistachios as that process alters the flavor. Some buyers also require unstained shells.

“Setton’s attention to harvest and processing is aimed at preserving quality in both the pistachio kernel and in-shell products,” Gibbons said. Pistachios are transported to their processing facilities quickly after shaking to remove hulls and begin the drying process. Trailer loads with significant amounts of debris can hamper unloading and cause congestion. Samples from each load are evaluated by the Quality Assurance department and are used to determine the overall quality of the load. The evaluation team looks at insect damage, adhering hulls, dark staining, light staining, undersize pistachios and closed shell blanks.

The drying process of pistachios is done deliberately slow to keep temperatures down so the natural flavor profile of pistachios is retained. Following the drying process, the moisture level of pistachios is stabilized in storage. Gibbons said sorting involves separating the pistachios with unblemished shells from the closed shell and shelling stock that is used for kernels following the shelling process. In-shell pistachios are roasted in a five-step process that gives a crunchy but not overly caramelized texture, resulting in top-quality pistachios for consumers to enjoy. Pistachio kernels follow a similar roasting process with additional sorting steps to ensure any shells or other defects are removed.

This year, Gibbons said, “Setton witnessed exceptional quality compared to prior crop years, particularly regarding insect damage and staining.”